Libya: 'Amazing' Hospitality Amid The Bloodshed
By Nick Ludlam, in Libya.
Driving along the main road through Al Bayda in eastern Libya, gunfire and the sight of rapidly reversing cars make us veer off the road for cover.
It turns out to be someone celebrating. The distinction is not always obvious and everyone here is on edge. But then 40 years of brutal oppression will do that.
Travelling through an unfamiliar country, entirely trusting in the goodness of strangers who speak an entirely alien language makes you analyse every gesture.Every incident, no matter how small becomes open to interpretation. The constant uncertainty of what to expect and how people will react is draining.
Hassen and Abdel Basset have spent days driving us from the border to their hometown. Only once we arrive do smiles and laughter start to replace their taciturn expressions. It can’t be easy having to humour suspicious, twitchy journalists in their charge. But it is difficult not to question the motives of people you are not paying and who are going through so much to help you. Particularly when they look like they have come straight from central casting.
But then I have never experienced Libyan hospitality before; it is amazing.
Our first meal puts any remaining doubts we might have had to rest. Enormous silver trays of rice with roast lamb, almonds and liver. Bowls of soup, pureed carrots, potato fritters and stuffed vine leaves. And it just keeps coming. The fruit, the sweet peppermint tea, cakes, biscuits and Turkish coffee. Friends and family are delighted to see you, all offering their homes to stay in. Their hospitality is overwhelming. Their bravery and desire for the events in Libya to be told to the outside world is humbling.
The extent of their honour and hospitality is perhaps best exemplified by their treatment of captured security forces. To convince them to lay down their arms the local ‘wise men’ promised them safety. They then moved them to people’s homes where they are being looked after and fed. The very soldiers that gunned down their neighbours are being protected from being lynched. When things stabilise they will be sent back to their home regions.
Everywhere we go we draw a crowd. It soon gets heated with people screaming then the guns start going off. There is a lot of anger at the West and its lack of intervention. But it is their desperation for their stories to be heard that is working them up not any resentment towards us.
I am repeatedly stunned by the Libyan peoples' ability to absorb what has happened and not want to exact revenge but instead create normality.
Each town has created temporary committees to organise their communities. Volunteers direct traffic and secure weapons caches. They also distribute food and fuel.
All the local committees in eastern Libya have come together over the last few days to discuss how they should approach their new found freedom. They heard from people who had lost their children to Gaddafi’s brutality. Their conclusion was a united Libya with freedom and democracy inscribed in a national constitution.
Fears of tribal conflict in a post-Gaddafi world may have been overstated.